White front-load washing machine with rolled towels on top

Washing machines

Washer Repair Across Dallas–Fort Worth

A washer full of water and wet towels takes over the whole laundry room. Find the symptom below, try the quick check, and if it's still stuck, we'll come take it apart.

Call (469) 720-0002 Text us Book a washer repair

Jump to your symptom

Water left in the drum
Won't spin, or spins slow
Shaking or walking across the floor
Leaking
Won't fill, or fills slowly
Musty smell in a front-loader

By symptom

What's your washer doing?

Water left in the drum

Usually behind it: The drain pump has failed or something is stuck in it. Socks, coins and hair ties find their way into the pump on almost every machine. A kinked drain hose does the same thing.
Check first: Front-loaders hide the pump filter behind a panel low on the front. Behind it is the pump filter. Put a towel and a shallow pan down first, because water comes out.
What we do: We clear the pump, test it, and replace it if the motor is weak or the impeller is broken.

Won't spin, or spins slow

Usually behind it: Top-loaders need the lid switch or lid lock to say the lid is shut. Front-loaders need the door lock. After that it's the drive belt, the motor coupling on older machines, or the shifter on many newer top-loads.
Check first: Spread the load out and run a drain and spin with nothing else. One heavy bath mat can make the machine think it's out of balance.
What we do: We test the lock, belt, motor and control, then replace the part that's stopping the spin.

Shaking or walking across the floor

Usually behind it: Worn shock absorbers on front-loaders, worn suspension rods or springs on top-loaders, or a machine that was never leveled.
Check first: Check the four feet. On a new machine, make sure the shipping bolts came out of the back.
What we do: We replace shocks, rods or springs and level the machine on the floor it sits on.

Leaking

Usually behind it: A torn door boot on a front-loader, worn hose washers at the wall, a cracked pump housing or, less often, a tub seal.
Check first: Look at both fill hoses where they meet the faucets. Too much detergent, or regular detergent in an HE machine, makes suds that spill out too.
What we do: We replace the boot, hoses or pump, and tell you plainly if a tub seal makes the repair too expensive.

Won't fill, or fills slowly

Usually behind it: The screens in the inlet valve are clogged, the valve coil has failed, or the water level switch isn't reading.
Check first: Make sure both faucets behind the washer are fully open and the hoses aren't pinched against the wall.
What we do: We clean the screens or replace the inlet valve and check the pressure switch and hose.

Musty smell in a front-loader

Usually behind it: Soap and lint sitting in the door boot and the pump filter. Front-loaders seal tight, so the moisture stays in.
Check first: Wipe the fold of the door boot, run the cleaning cycle with nothing in the drum, and leave the door cracked between loads.
What we do: We clear the filter and replace the boot if mold has gone past what cleaning can fix.

Top-load or front-load

What changes between the two

Top-loaders are simpler to work on and most parts come in through the cabinet or the top. Front-loaders pack more into less space, with a door lock, a rubber boot, a pump filter you can reach yourself, and heavy concrete counterweights on the tub. Neither is better at breaking down. Front-loaders just give more warning: a smell, a code, a bang during spin. Stacked pairs take a little longer because the dryer has to come off first.

Fix or replace?

Pumps, lid locks, door locks, belts, inlet valves, shocks and boots are all reasonable repairs on a washer of almost any age.

The repairs that change the math are a failed transmission or tub bearing on an older machine. Bearings announce themselves with a roar during spin. If that's what we find, you get the price and our honest opinion before anything else happens.

Types we work on: Top-load with agitator or impeller, front-load, stacked washer and dryer pairs, and all-in-one combos.

Washer repair pricing

Service call: $150
If you go with the repair: Service call is free
Parts and labor: Quoted before work starts
Warranty: 90 days, parts & labor
Seniors: 15% off
Everyone else: $10 off any repair

One coupon per job. The two can't be combined. Coupon details

Brands

Washer brands we work on

Our techs are factory trained. Pick your brand for the problems we see on it most.

Washer repair near you

Our route takes in seven counties around Dallas and Fort Worth. The biggest cities are below, and the service area page lists all 75.

Other repairs

Book a repair

Send the shop the details

Send this and it lands in our inbox at service@kgappliancerepair.com. We call you back during business hours (weekdays, 8 AM to 5 PM) to pick a time. If water is spreading across the floor, shut the valve and call (469) 720-0002.

A model number speeds things up. Look for the sticker inside the fridge wall, around the dishwasher door edge, under the cooktop, or on the back of the dryer door opening. You can also text a photo of it to (469) 720-0002.

Questions

Washer repair questions

Why does my washer stop with a code?

Most codes point to drain, door lock, water supply or balance problems. LG's OE and Samsung's 5C, for example, are drain codes. Write the code down when you book. It narrows the parts list before the tech arrives.

Can I use the washer until you get here?

If it drains and doesn't leak, yes, with smaller loads. If water is getting on the floor, turn off both faucets behind it and wait.

Do you work on stacked units?

Yes. Stacked pairs take a little longer because we may need to lift the dryer off to reach the washer.

Is a washer that walks dangerous?

It can pull its own hoses loose or damage the wall. Stop the cycle, level the feet and keep loads smaller until the suspension is fixed.

Does the warranty cover the part and the labor?

Yes, 90 days on both.