White front-load washer and dryer side by side in a basement laundry area

Clothes dryers

Dryer Repair in Dallas–Fort Worth

When a dryer quits, it usually quits in one of four ways: no heat, slow drying, noise, or not starting at all. Here's what's behind each one, and the checks that are safe to try first.

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Jump to your symptom

Runs but no heat (electric)
Runs but no heat (gas)
Takes two cycles to dry
Squealing, thumping or scraping
Won't start
Shuts off early or runs too hot

By symptom

What's your dryer doing?

Runs but no heat (electric)

Usually behind it: A blown thermal fuse, a burned-out heating element or a failed high-limit thermostat. On electric dryers, one half of the double breaker can trip and leave the drum turning with no heat.
Check first: Turn the dryer's breaker all the way off, then on again. If heat comes back, the breaker had half-tripped.
What we do: We test the fuse, element and thermostats in order, and find out why the fuse blew before we replace it.

Runs but no heat (gas)

Usually behind it: The igniter glows and the flame never comes, which usually means weak gas valve coils. No glow at all points to the igniter or the flame sensor.
Check first: Make sure the gas valve behind the dryer is open (handle in line with the pipe).
What we do: We test the igniter, sensor and valve coils, and check the burner area for lint.

Takes two cycles to dry

Usually behind it: Airflow. A full lint screen, a crushed foil duct behind the machine, or a vent run clogged with lint all the way to the outside cap.
Check first: Run the dryer and feel the air at the outside vent. It should push hard. A weak puff means a blocked vent, not a broken dryer.
What we do: We measure the temperatures and airflow, and tell you if the vent run needs cleaning before any parts get ordered.

Squealing, thumping or scraping

Usually behind it: A worn idler pulley squeals. Flat drum rollers thump. Worn drum glides or felt seals scrape, and leave black marks on clothes.
Check first: Notice which noise it is and whether it changes with a light or heavy load. That tells the tech which parts to bring.
What we do: We replace the pulley, rollers, glides or belt, usually in the same visit.

Won't start

Usually behind it: A door switch, start switch, broken belt switch or a blown thermal fuse. On many electric dryers the thermal fuse also cuts power to the motor.
Check first: Check the breaker, and make sure the door shuts firmly against the switch.
What we do: We trace the circuit with a meter until we hit the open part.

Shuts off early or runs too hot

Usually behind it: The moisture sensor bars are coated, or a cycling thermostat is out of range.
Check first: Wipe the two metal bars inside the drum, near the lint screen, with rubbing alcohol. Dryer sheets leave a film on them.
What we do: We test the thermostats and sensor circuit and check the exhaust temperature.

Vents and fire safety

Why we keep talking about the vent

Lint is what burns in a dryer fire. A long vent run, a vent that goes up through the roof, or a foil duct crushed behind the machine all make lint pile up faster. It also makes the dryer run hotter and longer, which wears out heating parts. Clean the lint screen every load, keep the space behind the dryer clear, and use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct instead of vinyl.

Fix or replace?

Thermal fuses, elements, igniters, belts, rollers and switches are inexpensive parts. A dryer is almost always worth repairing.

The exceptions are a failed motor or control board on an old, low-end dryer. Even then, the tech gives you the number and you make the call.

Types we work on: Electric and gas dryers, stacked pairs, front-load and top-load companion dryers.

Dryer repair pricing

Service call: $150
If you go with the repair: Service call is free
Parts and labor: Quoted before work starts
Warranty: 90 days, parts & labor
Seniors: 15% off
Everyone else: $10 off any repair

One coupon per job. The two can't be combined. Coupon details

Brands

Dryer brands we work on

Our techs are factory trained. Pick your brand for the problems we see on it most.

Dryer repair near you

Our route takes in seven counties around Dallas and Fort Worth. The biggest cities are below, and the service area page lists all 75.

Other repairs

Book a repair

Send the shop the details

Send this and it lands in our inbox at service@kgappliancerepair.com. We call you back during business hours (weekdays, 8 AM to 5 PM) to pick a time. If water is spreading across the floor, shut the valve and call (469) 720-0002.

A model number speeds things up. Look for the sticker inside the fridge wall, around the dishwasher door edge, under the cooktop, or on the back of the dryer door opening. You can also text a photo of it to (469) 720-0002.

Questions

Dryer repair questions

Do you clean dryer vents?

We check airflow on every dryer call and show you if the vent is the problem. Ask when you book if you want us to look at the duct behind the dryer while we're there.

Can a dryer that runs cold still be used?

It won't hurt anything to air-fluff, but don't keep running it if you smell burning or the fuse keeps blowing. Something is overheating.

Gas or electric, any difference in price?

The service call is $150 either way and free when you go with the repair. Part prices differ, and you get the repair number before we start.

Why did my thermal fuse blow?

Almost always restricted airflow. Replacing the fuse without fixing the vent just means it blows again.

What's covered by the warranty?

Parts we install and our labor, for 90 days.